Differences between sandpapers

There are many varieties of sandpaper available on the market today. They come in different grits, sizes, abrasions, materials and backings. Each has its own purpose. Here is a list of the different characteristics and types of sandpapers.

Sandpaper materials – They are responsible for the smoothing and shaping of materials.

• Ceramic – one of the hardest materials that are used to make sandpaper, they are also the most expensive. They are used to shave and level woods.
• Garnet – it is made from fine sand particles. It is cheap but less durable. Also primarily used on wood.
• Silicon Carbide – this type of sandpaper can come in many grits and is very coarse. It is primarily used to cut metals, plastics and fiberglass. It can be used even on wet surfaces.
• Aluminium Oxide – this is available in all type of grits, making it perfect for general use. Its primary use is for sanding down wood and metals.
• Chromium (III) oxide – this has an extremely fine grit, measured at micrometre levels.
• Emery – commonly used to polish metals.

Grit level – this is the abrasive measurement for sandpapers. It is responsible for the coarseness of the sandpaper. The higher number of grits is used for polishing and refining, while sandpaper with a lower number of grits is used for shaping materials. Below is a table of sandpaper grits and their recommended usage.

Size	Grade	Recommended Material(s)	Purpose
30 – 40	Very coarse	Metal and Wood	Shaping, Removing rust
40 – 60	Coarse	Metal and Wood	Removing scratches, shaping and removing paint
60 – 100	Medium	Wood and Plaster	Removing marks or dents, smoothening of walls
100 – 160	Fine	Wood and Plaster	Used before finishing
160 – 220	Very-Fine	Wood and Plaster	Final sanding
220 – 250	Extra-Fine	Wood and Plaster	Final sanding
250 - 400	Extra-Fine	Wood and Plaster	To provide a silky feeling
400 - 800	Super-Fine	Wood, Plaster and Glass	Used for wet-sanding, it provides sheen
800 – 1000	Ultra-Fine	Glass, Car Paint	Primarily used for polishing

Backings – the most common sandpaper backing is made of paper. Other backings include cotton, polyester, rubber, fibre, rayon and mylar. Special backing materials like cloth are used for sandpaper discs, mylars are mainly used for finer grit sandpaper backing. The softer the backing material, the more flexible the sandpaper will be.

Backings are also classified into different weights – ranging from A to F. “A” being the lightest and “F” the heaviest.

Shapes and Forms– there are many sandpaper shapes to suit every application. The common shape is the sheet type.

• Sheet type – usual size is 230 x 280mm.
• Rolls.
• Triangle – specifically made for “palm sanders”.
• Sponge – used for tight areas.
• Belt – specifically made for “belt sanders”.
• Disk – specifically made for “orbit sanders”.

The above information is essential for sanders. If not used properly, sandpaper may do more harm than good.

Sealants Tools & Direct offers a wide array of sandpapers that are available in many forms, sizes and grits. We offer our sandpapers in bundles for maximum savings. For order placements you may reach us on 01626 333360. Alternatively, you may visit our website and use our online order form.

6 Quick Steps to Repair a Leaking Aquarium

A leaking aquarium is a safety hazard both for both you and your pet fish. This article will help you to personally fix the leaking aquarium in just a few minutes. Just follow these step by step instructions and your aquarium will be as good as new in no time.

1. Find the spot where the leak is coming from. If the leak is not that noticeable, thoroughly check and source where the leak originates. You may also check any joins in the glass or the sealants. Once you have found the offending spot, encircle it using a marker. This will outline where you should apply the aquarium sealant.

2. Drain the water from the aquarium. Transfer the fish and plants to a container filled with water to keep them safe, before applying the sealants. It is important to ensure that the container is dry to guarantee the durability of the sealants. They may not stick to the aquarium if it is still wet.

3. Remove the old and damaged sealant using a cutter or razor. It is not advisable to apply new sealant without removing all traces of the old. Layering the new sealant on top will only make it weak and prevent it from adhering properly to the surface. If you opt to apply the sealant from the inside, make sure that all traces of unwanted sealant are removed so that the fish are not harmed.

4. Clean the aquarium using a towel. The aquarium should be clean and dry before you attempt to apply the sealant. Dirt can affect the sticking capacity and durability of sealants. If the towel is quite wet, let the aquarium dry for about 15 minutes.

5. Apply the aquarium silicone to the leaking area. Make sure that there is no excess sealant. Let it dry for a minimum of 12 hours. To ensure its best quality, do not move or touch it for 24 hours.

6. Check for further leaks. After 24 hours, you may fill the aquarium in order to check that it is water-tight. Once you have ensured that there are no further leaks, plants and fish may be re-introduced to the aquarium.

Since you already know how to repair a leaking aquarium, you may contact Sealants & Tools Direct now to purchase durable aquarium sealants. Thanks for reading!


Image Credits: Reef Addicts

A General Guide on Sealants

The demands for infrastructure repairs could not be met without specific construction requirements such as sealants. Sealants are used in building and construction industry both for structural and decorative purposes. It is commonly used in residential housing, construction, car maintenance and infrastructure development. Despite its different uses, sealants may pose risk if mishandled incorrectly. Here are some of the general guides in dealing with sealants.

Hygiene

Food and drinks should be prohibited inside the storage of sealants. Some adhesives emit dusts or toxic vapours so suitable dust masks, respirators and adequate ventilation should be provided during application. Skin contact should be minimised. Manufacturers should advise on cleansing and barrier creams for their products. Suitable protective clothing and eye protection may be needed if you are using a strong sealant.

Allergies, Spillage and Waste Disposal

A possibility that an individual may be allergic to a substance is always present. There is no easy solution to this problem if physical protection is inadequate. Complete avoidance to the exposure of these products may be the only remedy.

Spillages of any type should be attended immediately. Water-based sealants may be washed away with water before it dries. Avoid disposal into drains as this may clog it up. Another method is to soak up spillage with a material which can be closed in a suitable container for proper disposal. This is specifically for solvent-based sealants using sand, clay or powdered limestone as the absorbent material.

Utmost care should be taken into account when disposing empty solvent-based adhesives in order to avoid fire hazard. Empty containers must be carefully punctured or left open to ensure that no vapour is trapped under pressure, taking concern about the usual precautions on flammable materials. In all cases, the manufacturer’s instructions or label accompanying the product should be observed.

Storage

Some sealants should be stored in suitable fireproof areas according to the requirements of authorities and the manufacturer. All sealants should be stored in dry condition and reasonable temperatures preferably 5C – 30C. To ensure that the shelf life of adhesive products is not exceeded, strict rotation of stock should be observed and possible safety hazards from ageing should be avoided.

Remember to read the packaging before anything else. Keep it even after your application. Always ask an expert if you are unsure of anything. Keeping these things in mind ensures safety and of course, good sealant application. 

Sealing your Home against Pests

If your house has pest problems, sealing cracks and crevices around your house can help to prevent them from entering your home. It’s also one of the best ways of deterring them from entering your property and a vital step to complete pest extermination. Here’s how you can do it:

Identify the pests

It may not be obvious but you may have more than one type of pest in your home and it’s important to know as much as you can about them. While no one wants to be familiar with pests in the first place (particularly the disgusting ones), it’s important to be knowledgeable so you know the best steps to take to get rid of them.

Find where they’re coming from

These pests can usually enter your home through cracks, crevices and holes in your home but worst of all, their favourite entryways may be hidden or hard to reach. Some pests are easier to spot though, for example, you can easily see where the ants are coming from but for others pests like cockroaches, it may be too difficult as they can practically fit into anything. You should take note of places they frequent and consider locations where they are likely to pass through. The presence of droppings in a particular location may indicate a favourite place for a specific pest.

Seal the entrance or exit

If you find where they are coming from, apply pest control solvents to get rid of them and then seal the entrance/exit off with a sealant. Use weatherproof sealants if the entrance is outside to prevent it from being washed-off.

Look at the space between doors and the floor

Since most pests are small, they can simply pass beneath the door or even the windows. Most of the time, sealants are not an applicable solution here but you can use door weather strips to keep them out if the door is closed. As a bonus, it also lessens the problem of water getting in whenever it’s raining.

Use other pest control methods as well

Sealing won’t do you any good if the pests actually live inside the house, so it’s often best to use pest control methods, together with sealing to maximise their effect. Sealing alone may not be enough to get rid of them because they can just find another route.

If all else fails, call a professional

In worse case scenarios, there’s no choice but to hire a professional to do it for you. It may be expensive but it’s worth it if the problem is too much for you to handle.

Sealing your Home against Pests

If your house has pest problems, sealing cracks and crevices around your house can help to prevent them from entering your home. It’s also one of the best ways of deterring them from entering your property and a vital step to complete pest extermination. Here’s how you can do it:

Identify the pests

It may not be obvious but you may have more than one type of pest in your home and it’s important to know as much as you can about them. While no one wants to be familiar with pests in the first place (particularly the disgusting ones), it’s important to be knowledgeable so you know the best steps to take to get rid of them.

Find where they’re coming from

These pests can usually enter your home through cracks, crevices and holes in your home but worst of all, their favourite entryways may be hidden or hard to reach. Some pests are easier to spot though, for example, you can easily see where the ants are coming from but for others pests like cockroaches, it may be too difficult as they can practically fit into anything. You should take note of places they frequent and consider locations where they are likely to pass through. The presence of droppings in a particular location may indicate a favourite place for a specific pest.

Seal the entrance or exit

If you find where they are coming from, apply pest control solvents to get rid of them and then seal the entrance/exit off with a sealant. Use weatherproof sealants if the entrance is outside to prevent it from being washed-off.

Look at the space between doors and the floor

Since most pests are small, they can simply pass beneath the door or even the windows. Most of the time, sealants are not an applicable solution here but you can use door weather strips to keep them out if the door is closed. As a bonus, it also lessens the problem of water getting in whenever it’s raining.

Use other pest control methods as well

Sealing won’t do you any good if the pests actually live inside the house, so it’s often best to use pest control methods, together with sealing to maximise their effect. Sealing alone may not be enough to get rid of them because they can just find another route.

If all else fails, call a professional

In worse case scenarios, there’s no choice but to hire a professional to do it for you. It may be expensive but it’s worth it if the problem is too much for you to handle.

Top Home Caulking Pitfalls

Caulking is one of the many ways of sealing joints, seams and some types of piping. Caulking is used to provide thermal insulation, noise mitigation and control water penetration. This is mostly done with a combination of readily available construction materials such as silicone, polysulfide and polyurethane and acrylic sealants.

Caulking doesn’t only apply to shipbuilding but to home maintenance as well. Toilet bowls, wall joints, windows and other parts that are in need of sealing are all in need of caulking. Before you venture out on any do-it-yourself ideas and instructions, here are some of the common mistakes to avoid when caulking at home.

Settling to adhesive rather than sealant

Caulk is used for sealing cracks and gaps that exist between two materials especially in places where water and air could seep through. In the event when you see daylight through the crack or feel a draft, seal it with silicone. It is not an adhesive therefore, it is safe to use on door frames, sink and counter tops.

Failing to locate all leaks

Yes. It is important to seal leaks of your windows, electrical wirings, doors and plumbing but how about places like the attic, basements and crawl spaces. These leaks can pose bigger threats if left unattended.

Forgetting the caulk gun

Never leave the hardware store with just a caulk cartridge. It isn't designed to be squeezed and applied. You’ll need a caulk gun to properly dispense it when you apply it.

Neglecting the old caulk before applying new

Most people believe that applying a new caulk to the old one will help strengthen it, but no. Use a razor blade first to remove the old caulk. With this, not only will you remove the old layer but also the mildew and mold that may have formed. Follow it up by cleaning the surface with a household cleaner or rubbing alcohol with a wire brush or clean cloth. Be sure to make the surface clean, free of soap, dust and grease before caulking.

Wrong tube cut

The line of the caulk is called a bead and is usually formed with every squeeze of the caulk gun. The right bead starts with the right cut. Be careful to cut the opening of the caulk tube to fit the job. As a rule of thumb, cut near the top for a thin bead and further down for a thick bead. For silicone caulk, there is an inner seal that should be pierced before application.

These are some of the common pitfalls of home caulking. Always remember to read the instructions provided on the product packaging before you do the caulking. Keeping this information is important not only for instructions but for storage and first-aid reasons as well.

How to Fix Basement Floor Leaks

Frustrating water seepage keeps us from utilising our basement space fit for living. How do we fix it? 

Basement floor leak is a common household problem that makes our basement an unsuitable choice for living. Concrete floors are usually porous by nature which means that water can seep through your concrete floor and make it damp. Furthermore, basements usually lack proper air circulation which traps moisture once it seeps through the floor. 

This can easily be addressed once you know what to do.  First, find out the reason why the basement floor leaks. There are usually two major causes for this: either the workmanship was poor when the floor was poured or the house could have settled allowing cracks to form. Either way, basement floor leaks are a pain and have to be addressed right away. Applying a concrete floor sealant will keep your basement floor dry and stop your leak problem. It can also prevent mold and mildew from developing and help your floor last longer.

First, do some preparatory works before you start applying sealant on your floor. 

1.    Move everything out of the area that has to be sealed.

2.    Clean your floor. Sweep and mop it to make sure that you get rid of dirt and debris. Sealants are best applied to clean surfaces.

3.    While cleaning the floor, keep an eye out for hole and cracks that are bigger than 1/8 inch.  These cracks and holes have to be filled with epoxy and latex fillers and be allowed to dry.

4.    Water sealants usually don’t adhere to painted surfaces. If your floors are painted, you may need a floor sander to remove the paint. After sanding, clean up the sanding dust and let the floor dry completely.

5.    Once the floor is dry, fill the cracks and holes with epoxy and latex filler and let it dry.

6.    You are now ready to coat your floor with sealant. Start on the corner that is farthest away from the door and slowly work your way out.

7.    Use a stiff brush and do a circular motion in spreading the sealer. Make sure to feather the edges so they wouldn’t be too thick. Allow the sealant to dry.

8.    Soak the surface with water and then allow it to dry.

9.    Apply a second coating of the sealant.

Sealing basement floors will prevent mold and mildew which can cause health problems when exposed to it for a long period of time. Keep the moisture and water leaks from your basement floor by applying sealants and ultimately safeguard your health and your flooring budget.

Using Bathroom Sealants to Prevent Moulds and Mildew

Does your bathroom have mould and mildew? Do you want to be spared the headache of dealing with these nasty problems?

Our bathroom’s temperature, moisture and damp conditions are the perfect breeding ground for moulds and mildew. They are unsightly problems that can be a health hazard, potentially triggering allergies and respiratory problems. But more often than not, they are just a revolting reminder to maintain cleanliness. If left alone, they can lead to rot and further damage. It is thus important to prevent them from getting a chance to take hold. Any spot where water can spill down unsealed cracks will pose a risk unless covered by a sealant which will block gaps and prevent water from seeping through. The most vulnerable areas are the showers, baths, sinks and toilets. 

When the water in the bathroom dries out, it evaporates into the air. This increases the humidity and since bathrooms are not usually well-ventilated, the humidity tends to be trapped inside causing the wet surface to dry out slower. Dirt from body oils and soap which is washed off serves as a food source for mold to feed on and there is an abundance of water source for the  from the running water and steam.

 

Bathroom sealants are an essential tool to avert these smelly and unattractive patches. They are silicone based and come in different colours to match bathroom colour schemes. Most usually contain fungicidal chemicals to add extra protection. Bathroom sealants are fairly easy to use but you can use either flexible caulking or silicone sealant. 

Remove any old sealant from the work area by using the blade of a craft knife and clean any remaining residue with fine sandpaper or rub it with some alcohol. There are also chemicals available to remove silicone. If there is mildew, clean it thoroughly first. Make sure that your bathroom surface is dry before applying the sealant as it repels water, as such will not stick to wet surfaces. Contaminants like oil and dirt will also prevent it from sticking effectively. Do not use too much sealant to avoid bumps and uneven surfaces.  Bathroom sealants stick to non-porous surfaces which are smooth, unpainted solid surfaces that limit penetration of liquid like ceramic tiles and porcelain.

Always remember to replace bathroom sealants every few years in order to ensure that the gap stays waterproof. Sealants are easy to use and can block water from seeping down crevices that leave damp area where mould and mildew starts to form. Be sure to get your sealants from trusted sources to ensure that moulds and mildew are a thing of the past.

Safe Handling and Storage of Sealants and Adhesives

Sealants are a viscous material utilised to close minuscule openings that are hard to shut with the use of other materials. It is commonly used in building and construction industry. Consequently, it is important to note the precautionary measures in handling and storing sealants to avoid hazards.

Safe Handling   

1. Avoid storage or consumption of food and beverages in the area where sealants are handled or used.

                2. Use dust masks and respirators and provide for adequate ventilation using flame proof exhaust fans if necessary. Sealants may emit dust or toxic vapours that could be hazardous to health when inhaled.

3. Use protective clothing and eye protection to minimise skin contact. To remove sealant that has come in contact with skin, use suitable antiseptic cleaning agents instead of straight solvents. If the sealant is water-based, it must be washed off with cold water before they can dry to avoid discomfort. Splashes in the eyes should be washed immediately with water and medical advice should be sought when necessary.

4. Empty containers must be punctured or left open to ensure that no solvent vapour is trapped under pressure. Aerosol packages must not be punctured unless pressure has already been completely relieved.

5. Warm containers of sealant-based adhesives must be gradually and carefully opened to release internal pressure.

6. To clean spillage, use sand or powdered limestone to absorb the sealant before scraping up the residue.

7. If burns occur due to molten adhesives, immediately immerse the affected area in cold water for several minutes and cover it with a wet compress. Do not attempt to remove the cold adhesive from the skin and obtain medical help immediately.

Storage

1. Do not store or use near flames and avoid sparks.

2. The storage area must be a no smoking area. The vapours that can be given off of a sealant or adhesive can be converted by pyrolysis to toxic products due to a burning cigarette.

3. Flammable sealants should be stored in a dry, fireproof area under reasonable temperatures and according to the requirements laid down by the appropriate authorities.

4. To ensure that you will not store the sealant beyond its useful shelf life, regularly do a strict rotation of the stock. This would also eliminate possible safety risks due to ageing of the product.

It is important to note the specific manufacturer’s instructions and directions printed on the product itself. Keeping these in mind would help eliminate risks of hazardous mishaps from happening due to improper handling and storage of sealants and adhesives.